2. Cars
  3. 1980 E21 323i

Getrag Seal Replacement

Replacing the input shaft, output shaft, and selector shaft seals on my Getrag 245. This is very similar to other Getrag transmissions like the 240, 242, and 260. There’s a lot of information for this on the web but it all seems to date to around 2007-2012. I thought it was time to post something new.

The procedures haven't changed but maybe the tools have. The sealants, threadlockers, and other chemicals have which is what prompted me to do this gallery. Instead of spending hours reading or guessing on what sealants to use this page might give you some informed answers.

I wanted to replace the input bearing but that require separating the case and that seems like way more trouble than I want to deal with right now.

Lessons learned:
+ get all of your parts, hardware, and sealants before disassembly
+ open and study the parts so you know what you're looking for
+ buy a Bentley manual
+ when working with the sealants, have a plan and know the order to re-assemble. You don't want a mess or the sealant to set while you're trying to remember how it went together.
+ don't bother trying to clean the outside of the transmission unless you have a gentle blasting media. I scrubbed for hours with degreaser and various brushes and never got it completely clean. It came out decent and I just painted over anything left over.
Read More
  • Seals A seal kit from BimmerWorld for the G260. These seals are similar to the ones for the 242/245.

    Seals A seal kit from BimmerWorld for the G260. These seals are similar to the ones for the 242/245.

  • Seals My collection of old seals. None of them came out in one piece.

    Seals My collection of old seals. None of them came out in one piece.

  • DIY Instructions The good book. Screw the internet. This book is your savior. It’s worth five times the $64 price. Don’t get your greasy fingers on your phone. Keep this book handy in your workshop instead. https://www.bimmerworld.com/Bentley-Service-Manual-E30-84-91-3-Series.html

    DIY Instructions The good book. Screw the internet. This book is your savior. It’s worth five times the $64 price. Don’t get your greasy fingers on your phone. Keep this book handy in your workshop instead. https://www.bimmerworld.com/Bentley-Service-Manual-E30-84-91-3-Series.html

  • Getrag ID On top of the bellhousing is this stamped code. The GG refers to a 323i overdrive type.

    Getrag ID On top of the bellhousing is this stamped code. The GG refers to a 323i overdrive type.

  • Getrag ID Getrag ID type on the back of the rear cover.

    Getrag ID Getrag ID type on the back of the rear cover.

  • Getrag ID Another ID stamp on the front bellhousing cover. Since the front of the 242 and 245 are the same I assume this refers to a 242 transmission. Something in there must also relate to a 323i since the bellhousing is different for a 320i

    Getrag ID Another ID stamp on the front bellhousing cover. Since the front of the 242 and 245 are the same I assume this refers to a 242 transmission. Something in there must also relate to a 323i since the bellhousing is different for a 320i

  • Getrag ID M60 is supposedly the original engine code for the M20.

    Getrag ID M60 is supposedly the original engine code for the M20.

  • Before. Right side of transmission case. That fill plug has seen easier days and it was actually very tight. I was afraid the hex wall would strip or crack.

    Before. Right side of transmission case. That fill plug has seen easier days and it was actually very tight. I was afraid the hex wall would strip or crack.

  • Output Flange Before shot of the output flange.

    Output Flange Before shot of the output flange.

  • Output Flange Close-up of the rear collar nut. It's 30mm and a thin-wall socket is required. The lock ring is the very thin lauer of sheetmetal around the perimeter. The blue is rust converter that I applied over the whole transmission.

    Output Flange Close-up of the rear collar nut. It's 30mm and a thin-wall socket is required. The lock ring is the very thin lauer of sheetmetal around the perimeter. The blue is rust converter that I applied over the whole transmission.

  • Output Flange Close-up of the rear collar nut. It's 30mm and a thin-wall socket is required. The lock ring is the very thin lauer of sheetmetal around the perimeter. The blue is rust converter that I applied over the whole transmission.

    Output Flange Close-up of the rear collar nut. It's 30mm and a thin-wall socket is required. The lock ring is the very thin lauer of sheetmetal around the perimeter. The blue is rust converter that I applied over the whole transmission.

  • Output Flange Close-up of the rear lock ring. There are 3 indents on the flange for sliding a flathead screwdriver down. This gets removal of the ring started. Once started you beat and twist the ring until its loose.

    Output Flange Close-up of the rear lock ring. There are 3 indents on the flange for sliding a flathead screwdriver down. This gets removal of the ring started. Once started you beat and twist the ring until its loose.

  • Output Flange Close-up of the rear lock ring. There are 3 indents on the flange for sliding a flathead screwdriver down. This gets removal of the ring started. Once started you beat and twist the ring until its loose.

    Output Flange Close-up of the rear lock ring. There are 3 indents on the flange for sliding a flathead screwdriver down. This gets removal of the ring started. Once started you beat and twist the ring until its loose.

  • Output Flange Beaten into submission!

    Output Flange Beaten into submission!

  • Output Flange Beaten into submission.

    Output Flange Beaten into submission.

  • Output Shaft Seal A shot of PB Blaster and a 3-jaw puller made it as smooth as can be.

    Output Shaft Seal A shot of PB Blaster and a 3-jaw puller made it as smooth as can be.

  • Output Shaft Seal Output flange removed.

    Output Shaft Seal Output flange removed.

  • Output Shaft Seal Output flange removed.

    Output Shaft Seal Output flange removed.

  • Output Shaft Seal Output flange removed.

    Output Shaft Seal Output flange removed.

  • Output Shaft Seal Output flange removed.

    Output Shaft Seal Output flange removed.

  • Output Shaft Seal The seal was in rough shape before I started. It crumbled easily.

    Output Shaft Seal The seal was in rough shape before I started. It crumbled easily.

  • Output Flange Curil applied to the splines. I had no idea how much to use so I just applied a thin bead around the whole thing. It will spread down the spline when installed. I read about sealants for weeks! Nothing says to apply it to the splines but it makes sense. The back of the flange is directly exposed to oil and it can make its way down the splines. Since the Curil does not harden (it’s like honey) it will be possible to remove later on. I also applied it to the backside of the collar nut. I think that’s the last seam where oil could escape.

    Output Flange Curil applied to the splines. I had no idea how much to use so I just applied a thin bead around the whole thing. It will spread down the spline when installed. I read about sealants for weeks! Nothing says to apply it to the splines but it makes sense. The back of the flange is directly exposed to oil and it can make its way down the splines. Since the Curil does not harden (it’s like honey) it will be possible to remove later on. I also applied it to the backside of the collar nut. I think that’s the last seam where oil could escape.

  • Output Shaft Seal New seal installed. It’s fully installed; it’s not protruding past the cover. But I should have pressed it in further. I didn’t have anything that was the right size for pressing in. I should have stopped and sourced something better - PVC pipe, extra large washer, etc. I’m going to leave it for now since it might be fine. If it doesn’t leak then I’m all good. If it does leak then I can pull off the flange and do it all over again.

    Output Shaft Seal New seal installed. It’s fully installed; it’s not protruding past the cover. But I should have pressed it in further. I didn’t have anything that was the right size for pressing in. I should have stopped and sourced something better - PVC pipe, extra large washer, etc. I’m going to leave it for now since it might be fine. If it doesn’t leak then I’m all good. If it does leak then I can pull off the flange and do it all over again.

  • Output Flange All tightened back up. Torquing this nut was a big pain. The procedure is to tighten it beyond spec to fully seat the flange. Then loosen and finally torque to spec. I set the transmission on it’s side and applied a pry bar to the flange. But it was sketchy. I think a helper and a better way to hold the flange would have been the right method.

    Output Flange All tightened back up. Torquing this nut was a big pain. The procedure is to tighten it beyond spec to fully seat the flange. Then loosen and finally torque to spec. I set the transmission on it’s side and applied a pry bar to the flange. But it was sketchy. I think a helper and a better way to hold the flange would have been the right method.

  • Selector Shaft Seal This is more substantial than it looks. Hopefully you have a new seal on hand to study. What you see is just the lip. Beating it is a bad move because scratching the selector rod is bad.

    Selector Shaft Seal This is more substantial than it looks. Hopefully you have a new seal on hand to study. What you see is just the lip. Beating it is a bad move because scratching the selector rod is bad.

  • Selector Shaft Seal Like the output shaft seal, this piece was ready to crumble. With a pick the internal spring came out quickly. I took that as a good sign the rest of the seal would go easy.

    Selector Shaft Seal Like the output shaft seal, this piece was ready to crumble. With a pick the internal spring came out quickly. I took that as a good sign the rest of the seal would go easy.

  • Selector Shaft Seal With the outer tip and inner spring gone the entire seal was weak. I tapped this small flathead screwdriver down the shaft and gave it a good pry and it popped out.

    Selector Shaft Seal With the outer tip and inner spring gone the entire seal was weak. I tapped this small flathead screwdriver down the shaft and gave it a good pry and it popped out.

  • Selector Shaft Seal Soaked in oil and slid it down the shaft. I moved the shaft in and was able to get a deep socket over it to tap in.

    Selector Shaft Seal Soaked in oil and slid it down the shaft. I moved the shaft in and was able to get a deep socket over it to tap in.

  • Input Shaft Seal Before shot prior to removing the cover and guide tube. I did try scrubbing and cleaning this but this was the best I could get.

    Input Shaft Seal Before shot prior to removing the cover and guide tube. I did try scrubbing and cleaning this but this was the best I could get.

  • Input Shaft Seal Got sealant? I don't know what the point if this is. The bolt hole is a dead end (no oil access) so there is no point to sealing the tip of the bolt.

    Input Shaft Seal Got sealant? I don't know what the point if this is. The bolt hole is a dead end (no oil access) so there is no point to sealing the tip of the bolt.

  • Input Shaft Seal Sealant is a little crusty after X years.

    Input Shaft Seal Sealant is a little crusty after X years.

  • Input Shaft Seal This appears to be RTV sealant. Note there is no sealant on the flange.

    Input Shaft Seal This appears to be RTV sealant. Note there is no sealant on the flange.

  • Input Shaft Seal The original seal shortly after I tried prying. It crumbled and ripped easily.

    Input Shaft Seal The original seal shortly after I tried prying. It crumbled and ripped easily.

  • Input Shaft Seal Holy Hell. Since the seal crumbled and ripped to pieces it left behind the metal ring. I scraped and gently pried but it wouldn’t move. After scraping more black I realized they sealed the seal with RTV around the edge. And it was now fused to the flange. That’s a big chunk of RTV that I pried out with a pick.

    Input Shaft Seal Holy Hell. Since the seal crumbled and ripped to pieces it left behind the metal ring. I scraped and gently pried but it wouldn’t move. After scraping more black I realized they sealed the seal with RTV around the edge. And it was now fused to the flange. That’s a big chunk of RTV that I pried out with a pick.

  • Input Shaft Seal Finally removed the seal ring. I knocked it out by turning the flange with the tube pointing up, then knocked the ring with a long screwdriver. Yes, that’s more RTV clinging to the flange.

    Input Shaft Seal Finally removed the seal ring. I knocked it out by turning the flange with the tube pointing up, then knocked the ring with a long screwdriver. Yes, that’s more RTV clinging to the flange.

  • Input Shaft Seal Seal ring removed. RTV coating the edge.

    Input Shaft Seal Seal ring removed. RTV coating the edge.

  • Input Shaft Seal Old and new seals. And a lot of RTV crumbs.

    Input Shaft Seal Old and new seals. And a lot of RTV crumbs.

  • Input Shaft Seal New seal installed. The new seal went in with just finger pressure. I didn’t like that so I applied a thin layer of RTV before seating the seal. The previous tech did the same thing and I assume for the same reason.

    Input Shaft Seal New seal installed. The new seal went in with just finger pressure. I didn’t like that so I applied a thin layer of RTV before seating the seal. The previous tech did the same thing and I assume for the same reason.

  • Input Shaft Permatex Flange Sealant applied to the sealing surface of the flange cover. I also applied a dab to the underside of each washer on the bolts. When installing the bolts I used red Loctite on the threads. First I tried filling the bolt holes with RTV but I didn’t want the threads filled with it. I hope there is enough sealant on the flange to prevent leaks.

    Input Shaft Permatex Flange Sealant applied to the sealing surface of the flange cover. I also applied a dab to the underside of each washer on the bolts. When installing the bolts I used red Loctite on the threads. First I tried filling the bolt holes with RTV but I didn’t want the threads filled with it. I hope there is enough sealant on the flange to prevent leaks.

  • Sealants I struggled with choosing and applying sealants. I know what the Bentley manual says and what the forum opinions are. But that didn’t always make sense. INPUT SEAL: BMW calls for Loctite 573 which is hard to find or is hundreds of dollars. It’s acrylic (like plastic), anaerobic (sets when not exposed to oxygen), and with a tensile strength of 725psi. The closest I found was Permatex Flange Sealant which is all of the same but has a strength of 800psi. RTV is very different - silicone (like rubber), aerobic (sets with oxygen), and a tensile strength of only 240psi. I chose to use the RTV sparingly. OUTPUT SEAL: BMW calls for Elring Curil K2, which has been replaced several times with new formulas and is now Curil T2. It’s polyurethane with a tensile strength of 435psi. I think this is used more to prevent oil from creeping down the shaft splines so it doesn’t have to be strong or heavy. It just has to fill the gaps and harden.

    Sealants I struggled with choosing and applying sealants. I know what the Bentley manual says and what the forum opinions are. But that didn’t always make sense. INPUT SEAL: BMW calls for Loctite 573 which is hard to find or is hundreds of dollars. It’s acrylic (like plastic), anaerobic (sets when not exposed to oxygen), and with a tensile strength of 725psi. The closest I found was Permatex Flange Sealant which is all of the same but has a strength of 800psi. RTV is very different - silicone (like rubber), aerobic (sets with oxygen), and a tensile strength of only 240psi. I chose to use the RTV sparingly. OUTPUT SEAL: BMW calls for Elring Curil K2, which has been replaced several times with new formulas and is now Curil T2. It’s polyurethane with a tensile strength of 435psi. I think this is used more to prevent oil from creeping down the shaft splines so it doesn’t have to be strong or heavy. It just has to fill the gaps and harden.

  • Photo Sharing
  • About SmugMug
  • Browse Photos
  • Prints & Gifts
  • Terms
  • Privacy
  • Contact
  • Owner Log In
© 2023 SmugMug, Inc.