Willys CJ2A Suspension/Brakes Detail

Brakes
Front right drum and hub,
Brakes
Front right brake pipe and hose detail. So much gunk!
Brakes
Front right brake hose. This is a new hose to replace the blocked original.
Brakes
Front left. 2004
Suspension
Front right. 2004
Brakes
Right rear drum and hub.
Brakes
Rear right drum and hub. All of that debris on the floor was brushed from the drum!
Brakes
Rear brake detail with the drum removed. I had to make sure the bleed screw on the wheel cylinder would break loose and the best way to do it was to remove the cylinder and work on the bench. At the same time I also ran a piece of safety wire through the bleed screw and in the input and bleed holes on the cylinder. They were full of dirt and gunk. I cleaned with brake cleaner and penetrating oil to maybe loosen things up. Once back together I had a good functioing right-rear brake! I also had two broken shoe adjusters which required moving the shoes out of the way. I had trouble finding a photo online with the drum removed so I made sure to take one.
Brakes
Top view of rear brakes with the drum removed. The “Bendix” brake tools are visible on the left. They really are essential and make the adjustments so much easier.
Brakes
Rear left drum. 2004
Brakes
Rear right drum. 2004
Suspension
Rear suspension and differential. 2004
Suspension
Rear leaf springs. 2004
Suspension
Front right. 2019
Suspension
Front left. 2019
Steering
Tie rods 2019
Brakes
Brake master cylinder installed on the frame rail. There was just enough oil and grease that the bolts came undone with little effort. But there was plenty of rust to snap a brake line and all cotter pins that I touched. Surprisingly fluid came out of the hard line so maybe the brakes work if I could get the reservoir cap off....
Brakes
My chassis is a later 1948 model (one of the last 1,500 produced). The master cylinder mounts are spaced just under 3.5" apart and the holes are un-threaded. I had to make sure I ordered the correct master.
Brakes
My chassis is a later 1948 model (one of the last 1,500 produced). The master cylinder mounts are spaced just under 3.5" apart and the holes are un-threaded. I had to make sure I ordered the correct master. That cap did not want to come off, which prompted the replacement of the whole master cylinder. It's the smart move because one metal line was ready to turn into rusty dust anyway. I ordered a new brake light switch (on the left) and Y-fitting (next to switch) so I'll have a complete new master cylinder to install.
Brakes
Brake shoe adjustment procedure.
Brakes
Brake shoe adjustment procedure.
Brakes & Hub
Front left spindle and brake shoes.
Brakes & Hub
Brakes
Front left hard line from the brass fitting to the rubber line. This one from the auto parts store is too long.
Brakes & Hub
Front left spindle.
Brakes & Hub
Front left brake rotor and hub. This is when I took the cap off. Dirty and water-soaked grease. I bet the entire driveline is filled with this. It looks like one large nut, which confused me at first. But it’s really two thin nuts aligned together. I was really nervous taking this apart because I didn’t know what was in there. I bouhht a large axle nut socket and it came off with just a little effort. I was over-thinking it.
Brakes & Hub
Front left S-line and rubber hose.
Brakes & Hub
Front left brake rotor and hub. This is when I took the cap off. Dirty and water-soaked grease. I bet the entire driveline is filled with this. Inside is the roller bearing set.
Brakes & Hub
Front left spindle with new wheel cylinder.
Brakes & Hub
Front left wheel cylinder, S-pipe, rubber hose, and metal chassis line.